P-51D Miss America 60 ARF
< < back to main
Section 2: Joining the Wing HalvesStep 3
This kit had 6 ¾” dihedral, instead of the listed 6 ¼”. This however is not critical on this model, and causes no ill effects in building or flying.
Section 3: Installing the Aileron ServosSteps 1 through 6
The pictures on pages 10 and 11 all show the shorter JR arms. These should be changed to the 1” arms recommended before installing the servos on the mounts.
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control Horns and LinkagesStep 4
Drilling the 3 parallel holes for the control horn is very difficult and takes some time to get the control horn backing plate onto the screws. Just be patient and drill them the best you can, and if necessary you may need to drill them out a couple times to get them to line up. Some CA put in the holes drilled will help keep things secure.
Section 5: Installing the Retract ServoStep 1
These did require some trial and error to get to fit, but it was not overly difficult. Just take your time to make them fit properly. Step 4
Here again, this did require some trail and error to fit properly. Again, just take your time. Step 8
The hardware provided used e-clips to secure the quick connects to the wheel. This took some time to do, but after you get the e-clips into place there are no problems using them. Step 10
Clipping the excess wire was found to be difficult to do, since there is limited area to work in. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. A 90-degree adapter on the dremel may provide some assistance to cut these wires.
The retracts did require some set up work to operate correctly as it required some adjustments on the quick connects and a little trial and error, but is not too difficult to complete. Be sure that they lock in both the up and down positions with the servo.
Section 6: Installing the Main Landing Gear Wheels and FairingsStep 5
The straps are metal, and not a nylon strap as shown in the pictures. Step 7
After drawing the line from the top to the bottom on the fairing, remove the fairing from the landing gear and proceed with the rest of the step. Step 9
The screws for this step are not wood screws as stated, but rather socket head cap screws that thread into the lock nuts supplied.
Some CA may be required to secure the fairing on the landing gear leg, as these were still free to rotate a little bit. Just put some CA under the straps on the landing gear leg.
Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin)Step 7 and 8
You can do these steps in reverse order to speed assembly some. Check to see if the stab is parallel with the wing before removing the stab. Then if it is not, after removing the stab lightly sand the saddle to square it up.
Also in step 7, pay special attention to the cautions in the manual, which mention not pressing hard with the knife when removing the covering from horizontal tail. If it is cut to deep, it will fail. Step 10
Here again, pay special attention to the cautions in the manual, which mention not pressing hard with the knife when removing the covering from vertical tail and fuse. If they are cut to deep, they will fail. Step 12
If you put epoxy in the saddle it will make a mess on the covering on one side. I just put some on the center section of the stab before installing it onto the fuse.
Section 9: Hinging the ElevatorsStep 2
Be very careful to drill exactly on the center of the elevator and straight, so you do not drill through the outside of the elevator. Extreme caution should be taken, or you will damage your elevators. Step 3
Be absolutely sure that the elevators line up with each other in this step. Bend the wire as necessary to achieve this.
Section 11: Installing the Elevator and Rudder Control HornsStep 3
Drilling the 3 parallel holes for the control horn is very difficult and takes some time to get the control horn backing plate onto the screws. Just be patient and drill them the best you can, and if necessary you may need to drill them out a couple times to get them to line up. Some CA put in the holes drilled will help keep things secure. Step 5
This should be done on the right side of the rudder, and not the left side as stated.
Section 12: Assembling the Fuel TankStep 7
Hold the tank up to a light to be able to see the vent and the clunk lines to be sure they are positioned correctly. The tank being white does make this harder to see, but holding it up to a light will allow you to see the lines.
Section 13: Mounting the EngineStep 5
You will need to drill a 5/32” hole for the pushrod tube, not 1/8” as stated. Step 7
I added a piece of balsa stick behind the tank with some foam in between it and the tank to keep the tank from sliding back.
Section 15: Installing the Rudder, Elevator, and Throttle Linkage
I secured the battery and receiver with foam and some balsa sticks in the area above and behind the fuel tank. This is the area right in front of the canopy. You may need to adjust this position as required to achieve the correct CG of the plane.
Section 16: Attaching the CowlStep 3
I also marked the position of the needle valves on each side on the paper at the same time, and transferred these marks to the cowl as well.
Section 18: Balancing and Control Throw Recommendations
Balance the plane 4 ¾” back from the point where the wing meets the fuse at the very front. This is the very front of the wing. On this plane, it balanced without adding any weight or moving anything with the battery right behind the fuel tank.